Two sub-regions which are not in the highest regard at the slightest. People associate Beaujolais with the infamous, early Nouveau and a lot of light reds with dilute flavours. Mâconnais the birthplace of badly made Chardonnays that was considered sophisticated and step up from Blue Nun at the late 80s and 90s. Maybe there is more to them that meets the eye.
The Beaujolais and Mâconnais districts are traditionally classed as part of Burgundy which may sound surprising. Do not forget the Chablis is part of Burgundy as well, but it is much closer to Champagne than to Mâcon!
They are neighbours: Beaujolais is just north of Mâconnais, and they are both in the Saone valley. Although Beaujolais is actually in the Rhone department which is more noticeable when you look at the soil types. Beaujolais’s soil is granite and schist typically, being at the foothills of the Massif Central, with some limestone mostly for the white grape sites on the border with Mâconnais.
Mâconnais’s gently rolling hills are limestone and vineyards alternating with pastures for livestock and arable lands. Beaujolais includes some communes of Mâconnais and some vineyards can be classed as Beaujolais Blanc or like St-Véran as well. The climate is similar, semi-continental, the tempering effect of the Mediterranean is detectable.
Beaujolais is the workhorse of Burgundy. It produces higher quantities of wine than the rest of its sub-regions put together. It has one of the highest density vineyard area in the world with 9000-13000 vines per hectare and yields are relatively high 55-70 hl/ha. The Mâconnais area is much less densely planted and maximum yields are considerably lower with 60-50 hl/ha. Whereas Beaujolais has Goblet vine training, Mâconnais using the completely different Lyre-system.
Beaujolais is 98% black grape, Gamay, with tiny amount of Chardonnay and Aligoté, and Mâconnais most planted variety is Chardonnay (90%) with Gamay and some Pinot Noir.
The wines of both districts are very-unfashionable nowadays with some exception (like Cru Beaujolais and Pouilly-Fuissé), although they were at their peaks at the early 90s when overproduction led to dilute, lesser quality products and suddenly they became less desirable. They both commands relatively low prices. Beaujolais is a light, fruity red, which should be drunk young, although some Cru Beaujolais from a good vintage can take some bottle ageing and can age gracefully. Usually both districts use stainless steel for fermentation, but Mâconnais for the better- quality products would use barrel fermentation and barrel ageing or even new oak.
In Beaujolais whole bunch picking is necessary for the carbonic and semi-carbonic maceration which takes place in 40-100ha vats. Beaujolais are often picked early, slightly under-ripe, chaptalized and uniquely the press wine is included in the final product to provide some structure.
The Cru Beaujolais are much more likely to be made in a more proper, Burgundian way, some of them can even be cask aged. A simple Beaujolais is made to be drank within a year, a Beaujolais Village within two years and Cru Beaujolais within three with the exception of some of the great vintages. The classification includes Beaujolais Nouveau, Bas-Beaujolais from the flatter, more fertile lands around Belleville. Beaujolais Villages and the Cru Beaujolais from the northern parts, from the foothills of the Massif Central. The Mâconnais classification for white wine follows a similar system with Mâcon, Mâcon-Villages, and Mâcon with a specific village name, like Mâcon-Lugny. Red wines are classed similarly from the Gamay grapes, but from Pinot Noir they would be sold as Bourgogne Rouge. There is some Crémant de Bourgogne produced in the Mâconnais, whereas no significant sparkling in Beaujolais.
A generic Mâcon is rather simple, does not show the true character and potential of a great Chardonnay. Having said that some of the best Chardonnays come from this region like Pouilly-Fuissé with true ageing potential, barrel fermentation, barrel ageing. Both regions have co-operatives that mop up a great portion of the total wine production and big Burgundy names, own and produce wine in both regions. Louis Jadot has plantings in Beaujolais and Olivier Leflaive is investing in the Mâconnais region. In 2020, the lengthy process of finalization of 23 new 1er Cru AOC designations finally concluded in Mâconnais. That means the new quality wines from this region are going to be serious contenders for reasonably priced Burgundies. Watch out people!
Photographs by The Tannin Addict.